LISTS OF ACADEMIC HOOD LINING PATTERNS:

“Uniform Scheme of Academic Gowns and Hood”. The Living Church Quarterly 11:1 (1 December 1895), 59-64. This article was sent to the editor of this quarterly by the members of the Intercollegiate Commission on Academic Costume and contains a copy of the 1895 Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume and a list of college colors appended to the Code by the authors of the Code. At this early date the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume was still working out a method of dividing two or more colors in the hood lining of a given college or university in a way that would distinguish between schools that used the same colors.

“Albany Bureau of Academic Costume: Caps, Gowns and Regalia for American Colleges Originate Here”. The [Albany, NY] Argus, 27 July 1902. This newspaper article contains an early partial list of college and university hood lining patterns that can be seen here.

Leonard, Gardner C. “Academic Costume”. In A Cyclopedia of Education, Volume 1, edited by Paul Monroe. New York: Macmillan, 1911, 14-18. A copy of the hood lining list in this article can be seen here, and a painting to illustrate some of those hoods prepared for this article can be seen here. The list of hood lining patterns is almost identical to the list from the 1902 Argus (see above), but there are a few differences.

Leonard, Garner Cotrell. “Costume, Academic”. In The Encyclopedia Americana, Volume 8, New York: The Encyclopedia Americana Corporation, 1918, 48-52. A copy of the hood lining list in this article can be seen here. This is not a complete list of hood lining patterns the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume had approved, but at 97 colleges and universities it was the longest published Intercollegiate Bureau list thus far. A complete list of the Bureau’s hood lining patterns would not appear until 1927 (see below).

Haycraft, Frank W. The Degrees and Hoods of the World’s Universities & Colleges. Ware: Jennings & Bewley, 1923. The information about American academic costume in this book is from c.1912-1914, and appears to be a short list of hood lining patterns from the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume that was supplemented with college color information from the 1909 or 1910 edition of the World Almanac.

Haycraft, Frank W. The Degrees and Hoods of the World’s Universities and Colleges, New and Revised Edition. London: Cheshunt Press, 1924. The information about American academic costume in this book is from c.1923. Like the first edition (1923) of this book the hood lining information appears to have been compiled from a short list from the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume, padded with college color information from the 1923 edition of the World Almanac. Neither the 1923 nor the 1924 editions of this book are particularly trustworthy because most of the hood lining information was generated by assuming the first color listed for a college or university in the World Almanac is the hood lining color and the second color listed in the World Almanac is the chevron color.

Haycraft, Frank W. The Degrees and Hoods of the World’s Universities and Colleges, 3^rd ed. London: Cheshunt Press, 1927. The information about American academic costume in this book is from c.1925 and was sourced from the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume. This is an extremely important list as it is the first known complete list of hood lining patterns from the Intercollegiate Bureau. It can be seen here.

Haycraft, Frank W. Revised and enlarged by E. W. Scobie Stringer. The Degrees and Hoods of the World’s Universities and Colleges, 4^th ed. Cheshunt: Cheshunt Press, 1948. The information about American academic costume in this book is from c.1946 and is another complete list of hood lining patterns from the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume. Like the 1927 edition, however, this list includes numerous “generic” hood lining patterns the Bureau recorded for colleges and universities that had not contacted the Bureau for an official hood lining pattern assignment, or recorded for colleges and universities that had contacted the Bureau but did not offer terminal degrees. These “generic” patterns were simply a record of the school’s colors with the first color cited as the hood lining and the second color cited as the color of a chevron. This list can be seen here.

Sheard, Kevin. Academic Heraldry in America. Marquette, MI: Northern Michigan College Press, 1962. A seminal work of academic costume research. Sheard contacted every college and university in the United States, asking them to describe the hood lining pattern they were using at the time (c.1960). He compiled the information about those colleges and universities that responded, which gives contemporary researchers insight into the hood linings American schools were using in 1960 – which was not necessarily what the Intercollegiate Bureau had assigned to them.

Lockmiller, David A. Scholars on Parade: Colleges, Universities, Costumes and Degrees. NY: Macmillan, 1969. The list of hood lining patterns Lockmiller received from the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume can be seen here. The Bureau seems to have used information from Sheard’s Academic Heraldry in America (1962, see above) to update the out-of-date hood lining information it had for colleges and universities that were no longer clients of Cotrell & Leonard, where the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume was located.

Smith, Hugh. Assisted by Kevin Sheard. Academic Dress and Insignia of the World: Gowns, Hats, Chains of Office, Hoods, Rings, Medals and other Degree Insignia of Universities & Other Institutions of Learning, Volumes Two and Three. Capetown, South Africa: A. A. Balkema, 1970. The second and third volumes of this massive tome include updated information about American academic costume, including hood lining patterns and Faculty colors, compiled by Kevin Sheard. One may think of these volumes as a “second edition” of Sheard’s Academic Heraldry in America (1962).

Haycraft, Frank W. Revised and enlarged by Frederick R. S. Rogers, Charles A. H. Franklyn, George W. Shaw, and Hugh Alexander Boyd. The Degrees and Hoods of the World’s Universities and Colleges, 5^th ed. Lewes, Sussex: W. E. Baxter, Ltd., 1972. The list of American hood lining patterns in this book dates from c.1971 and, along with other information about American academic costume, is sourced from the Intercollegiate Bureau. The Bureau, in turn, was taking much of its hood lining information from Sheard’s 1962 and 1970 lists (see above). One of the authors of The Degrees and Hoods of the World’s Universities and Colleges rearranged the Bureau’s hood lining list by state, which can be seen here. By this point the Cotrell & Leonard firm, home of the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume, was having serious financial problems that would bankrupt the company in 1980.