The 1927 and 1948 editions of Frank W. Haycraft’s The Degrees and Hoods of the World’s Universities and Colleges were updated, revised, re-written, and privately published in a new 1972 edition by a group of British academic costume scholars: Frederick R. S. Rogers, Charles A. H. Franklyn, George W. Shaw, and Hugh Alexander Boyd. The 1927 and 1948 editions of the book had included complete lists of academic hood lining patterns from the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume; the 1972 edition was no different, except that one of the authors rearranged the Bureau’s list so that the colleges and universities were listed by state.

The chapter on American academic costume was sourced from new information provided by the Intercollegiate Bureau c.1971, including another complete list of academic hood lining patterns and a current list of Faculty colors that had been approved by the Bureau.

By this point the authority of the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume had waned. As the market share of the Cotrell & Leonard firm had shrunk, the influence of the Bureau had been eclipsed by the American Council on Education and by other academic costume manufacturers who did not necessarily know or follow the hood lining assignments and Faculty colors the Bureau had been authorizing since 1895. Only eight years after this 5^th edition of The Degrees and Hoods of the World’s Universities and Colleges was published, Cotrell & Leonard would file for bankruptcy, racked by labor unrest and bad publicity. The company was purchased by Oak Hall, another academic costume firm, in 1980. The Intercollegiate Bureau may have survived, at least informally, into the early 2000s but today it is apparently defunct.

This 1972 list of hood lining patterns exhibits some peculiarities. First of all, there are often differences between this list and the partial list of hood lining patterns the Bureau provided to David Lockmiller in 1969. The Bureau’s 1969 list was heavily influenced by the research Kevin Sheard had published in Academic Heraldry in America (1962). For that 1969 list, the Bureau seems to have combined up-t0-date hood lining information from the client files of Cotrell & Leonard with Sheard’s information about the hood lining patterns of colleges and universities that were not clients of Cotrell & Leonard and colleges and universities that had at one time been Cotrell & Leonard’s clients but were no longer.

Sheard would publish an updated list of hood lining patterns in volumes two and three of a 1970 book co-authored with Hugh Smith called Academic Dress and Insignia of the World. When the authors of The Degrees and Hoods of the World’s Universities and Colleges contacted the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume in 1970 or 1971 to request a current hood lining pattern list, the Bureau again borrowed descriptions of non-client and former client hoods from this newest summary of Sheard’s research and combined this with descriptions of client hoods from the Bureau’s database. For non-clients or former clients, the Bureau typically used the school color citations they had on file from earlier lists (like those published by Haycraft in 1927 and 1948) but updated the heraldic pattern of the hood linings (whenever applicable) using information from Sheard’s 1970 list.

A few schools only appear in the 1972 edition of The Degrees and Hoods of the World’s Universities and Colleges;  these must have been clients of Cotrell & Leonard that Sheard’s research missed.

Another peculiarity of this 1972 list is that some of the colleges and universities have their founding date cited. Other colleges and universities do not. No explanation of this inconsistency has been discovered, but it is believed that institutions cited with founding dates are institutions that had been clients of Cotrell & Leonard at some point between 1895 and 1971. They may have no longer been clients in 1971, but today there is no way to know which ones were or were not clients of Cotrell & Leonard in 1971. Since this is the case, the hood information in the 1972 edition of The Degrees and Hoods of the World’s Universities and Colleges should be approached with caution, because some of these hood descriptions might be revised Intercollegiate Bureau descriptions taken from Sheard’s 1962 and 1970 data and not the original Intercollegiate Bureau hood lining pattern assignment.

In other words, in 1971 the Intercollegiate Bureau must have assumed that for schools that were former clients of Cotrell & Leonard, the information the Bureau had for each was out-of-date and should be revised using the information from Sheard, particularly if the Sheard description used a special heraldic pattern. The Intercollegiate Bureau was well aware that too many schools were using indistinctive “generic” chevron patterns, so anything to break this monotony would have been welcomed.

A final peculiarity of this 1972 list is that a number of colleges and universities are double-listed under their old and new names (sometimes with different hood lining assignments!), and a number of defunct institutions are cited, probably because the Bureau did not know that they had closed.